A Masterclass in Wood Oil Finishes
The Soul of the Surface: The Philosophy of the Finish
Before a single drop of oil ever touches the wood, a fundamental choice must be made. It's a choice that defines not only the look and feel of the piece but also the relationship its owner will have with it for decades to come. The question is this: do you want to touch the wood, or do you want to touch a layer of plastic sitting on top of the wood? This is the core distinction between a penetrating oil finish and a film-forming finish like lacquer or varnish, and it is at the heart of our philosophy here in the workshop.
Penetrating oils, such as pure Tung oil or linseed oil, work by soaking deep into the wood fibers themselves [1]. They become part of the wood, enhancing the natural depth and character of the grain, often providing a warm, tactile feel and a more subdued, matte appearance that celebrates the timber's inherent beauty [3]. The most significant advantage of this approach, and why we champion it for pieces like dining tables that are destined to become the heart of a home, is their repairability. Life happens around a dining table. When a scratch or a scuff inevitably occurs on an oiled surface, it can be locally sanded and re-oiled, blending seamlessly back into the original finish [3]. This allows the furniture to live, breathe, and age gracefully with a family, gathering stories rather than blemishes.
On the other hand, film finishes like lacquer and varnish create a hard, protective layer that sits on top of the wood.1 These finishes are prized for their durability against scratches, spills, and heat, often imparting a high-gloss, modern sheen [3]. This level of protection, however, comes at a cost. The tactile connection to the wood is lost, replaced by a surface that can feel synthetic or "plastic" [4]. More importantly, repairs are a significant undertaking. A deep scratch in a lacquered top cannot be spot-repaired; it fractures the entire film, often requiring the whole surface to be chemically stripped and professionally refinished [3]. This creates a piece that must be handled with constant caution, where damage is a source of anxiety rather than a mark of a life well-lived.
This isn't a simple matter of "good versus bad," but a choice of philosophy. A film finish is a static shield, excellent for high-traffic commercial settings where a sealed-off, easily sanitized surface is paramount. A penetrating oil finish is a dynamic, living surface, designed for a piece that you want to connect with, that feels alive to the touch, and that can be maintained and cherished for generations. The finish you choose dictates the future you will have with your furniture. An oiled table invites use, accepting that life will leave its mark, and that each mark can be gently healed, becoming part of its history. This fosters a relaxed, intimate, and enduring relationship, which is the very essence of the timeless, functional art we strive to create [7].
It is also crucial to understand that the word "natural" in the context of finishes can be deceptive. While some oils are pure and plant-based, many products on the market are not what they seem. Common finishes like "Danish Oil" and "Teak Oil" are often not pure oils at all. "Danish Oil" is a broad marketing term for a blend of oil and varnish [8], while "Teak Oil" almost never contains oil from the teak tree, instead being a mixture of Tung or Linseed oil with chemical solvents and varnish resins [10]. These are hybrid finishes, offering some of the penetration of an oil but also forming a slight film on the surface. When a client requests a "natural oil finish," it is our duty as craftsmen to clarify this distinction, guiding them towards a truly pure, polymerizing oil like Tung or a high-quality hardwax-oil if that is their true desire.
The Foundation of a Flawless Finish: Preparation is 90% of the Work
Here in the workshop, we have a saying: the finish doesn't hide mistakes, it highlights them. A perfect finish begins long before you open a can of oil. It begins with meticulous, painstaking preparation. This is the unglamorous but absolutely essential foundation of everything we do. Without a perfectly prepared surface, even the finest oil in the world will fail.
The process starts with sanding, but it must be a methodical progression. We begin with a coarser grit, typically 120, to level the surface and remove any marks left by the planer or other machinery. From there, we work our way up through the grits—150, then 180, and finally finishing at 220 for most furniture applications [9]. For certain pieces, like a kitchen worktop made from a particularly absorbent wood, we might stop at a slightly coarser grit like P120 or P150 to ensure maximum absorption of the finish [13].
A common misconception among amateurs is that sanding to an extremely fine grit, perhaps 1000 or even 2000, will yield a better result [14]. This is a critical mistake when applying a penetrating oil. Sanding is a cutting process, not a polishing one. The goal is to create a uniform series of scratches that are small enough to be invisible to the naked eye, while leaving the wood's pores open and receptive to the oil. When you sand too fine, you begin to burnish the wood, polishing the surface and closing off those pores [15]. This prevents the oil from penetrating deeply and evenly, which can lead to a blotchy, weak finish that sits on the surface instead of becoming part of the wood. Each successive grit must fully remove the deeper scratches of the previous one; jumping from 120 to 220, for example, will only polish the peaks of the 120-grit scratches, leaving the valleys untouched and resulting in an inconsistent surface [15].
The final sanding grit is not a fixed rule but a variable that the craftsman must determine based on the wood's density and the oil's viscosity. A dense wood like Ipe has smaller pores, so to help a thicker oil penetrate, one might stop at a lower grit. Conversely, for a very thin, deeply penetrating oil on a softer, blotch-prone wood like pine, sanding to a finer 220 grit can help to slightly control and even out the absorption.
Once the sanding is complete, dust removal is a non-negotiable, multi-stage process. First, we use a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment to remove the bulk of the particles from the surface and the pores [13]. After that, we go over the entire piece with a tack cloth or a clean, lint-free rag lightly dampened with mineral spirits. This crucial step picks up the finest, almost invisible dust particles that the vacuum leaves behind [9]. Any dust left on the surface will become trapped in the finish, creating tiny, rough bumps known as "nibs" that completely ruin the smooth, tactile quality we are striving for [17]. Furthermore, any contaminants like glue residue or grease must be removed with mineral spirits before the final sanding, as the oil will not be able to penetrate these areas, leaving pale, unfinished spots [9].
A Deep Dive into the Oils: Our Guide to the Perfect Dining Table Finish
Now we get to the heart of it. We've prepared our beautiful slab of English oak, and it's time to give it its voice. We will walk through the five oils from our original blog post, but we're going much deeper, sharing the workshop secrets for each one. We've prepared a comparative guide to help you understand the unique character of each finish at a glance.
The Woodyard Ockeridge's Comparative Guide to Oil Finishes
Pure Tung Oil
Food surfaces, high-end furniture, items needing maximum water resistance.
Warm, slight amber hue. Builds to a matte/satin sheen. Deepens grain.
Excellent. Polymerizes into a hard, flexible, waterproof finish.
Difficult. Multiple thin coats, long waits. Wipe on, wait, wipe off all excess.
Very Long (15-30 days for full cure).
Warning: Applying coats too thickly or too soon results in a sticky, gummy mess that may never cure [18].
Linseed Oil (Boiled)
Tool handles, rustic furniture, interior architectural elements.
Rich, amber/golden hue that darkens with age. Classic satin patina.
Moderate. Softer than Tung oil. Good water resistance but can support mildew outdoors [20].
Easy. Wipe on, let soak, wipe off excess. Can be reapplied easily.
Moderate (24-48 hours between coats, weeks to fully cure).
CRITICAL WARNING: Rags are highly prone to spontaneous combustion. Lay flat to dry or submerge in water [20].
"Danish Oil"
General purpose furniture, beginner-friendly projects.
Varies by brand. Typically a low-lustre, satin sheen.
Good. The varnish component adds surface hardness and scratch resistance [9].
Very Easy. Wipe on, wait 15-30 mins, wipe off. Often a one-day process [12].
Fast (often 6-8 hours to touch, 24-48 hours to recoat).
Insight: "Danish Oil" is a vague marketing term for an oil/varnish blend. Results and durability vary hugely by brand [8].
Walnut Oil
Cutting boards, salad bowls, children's toys. Any food-contact item.
Natural, subtle warming effect. Low-lustre, matte finish.
Low to Moderate. It's a semi-drying oil; offers some protection but needs regular reapplication.
Very Easy. Wipe on generously, let soak, wipe off excess.
Long (days to harden, may never fully "cure" like Tung oil).
Pro-Tip: Use heat-treated/polymerized walnut oil for finishing. Grocery store salad oil may go rancid or cure poorly [22].
"Teak Oil"
Primarily for outdoor furniture to restore colour.
Restores a golden-brown "teak" look. Sheen varies.
Moderate. Contains UV inhibitors. More of a cosmetic treatment than a long-term protector.11
Easy. Clean wood well, brush or wipe on, wipe off excess.
Fast (often 4-6 hours recoat time).
Warning: Does not come from teak trees. It's a marketing term. For true protection, a marine varnish or sealer is superior [11].
Hardwax-Oil (Osmo)
High-traffic floors, kitchen worktops, dining tables needing high durability.
Clear or tinted. Satin to Matte. "Permanent wet effect" or natural tone.
Excellent. Combines penetrating oils with surface waxes for resistance to water, wine, coffee.1
Moderate. Apply very thinly with a brush or pad. Do not over-apply.
Moderate (8-10 hours between coats, 2-3 weeks to fully cure).
Pro-Tip: Application must be extremely thin. Leaving excess on the surface results in a tacky, blotchy finish [26].
Tung Oil: The Ancient Secret of Durability
Tung oil is one of the oldest and most revered finishes in the world, derived from the nut of the tung tree.11 It is a pure, natural, polymerizing oil, which means it undergoes a chemical reaction with oxygen to transform from a liquid into a solid, flexible, plastic-like polymer inside the wood. This process results in a finish that is exceptionally hard, non-toxic, food-safe, and highly resistant to water [27]. It imparts a beautiful, deep "wet look" to the wood with a subtle amber hue that enriches the grain without obscuring it [16].
However, this exceptional performance demands a price, and that price is patience. The application of pure Tung oil is a ritual. To begin, the first coat should be thinned, typically in a 1:1 ratio with a solvent like natural citrus solvent or mineral spirits. This lowers the oil's viscosity and allows it to penetrate deeper into the wood fibers for a stronger foundation [27]. This thinned mixture is wiped on liberally, and the wood is allowed to drink it in for anywhere from 15 to 40 minutes [14].
Now comes the most critical step in the entire process: aggressively wiping off all of the excess oil. The surface should be rubbed with clean, lint-free cloths until it feels almost dry to the touch [27]. This is where most people fail. The natural inclination is to leave a thick, oily layer, believing that more oil equals more protection. With Tung oil, the opposite is true. The most common failure—a perpetually sticky, gummy surface—is caused by leaving excess oil on the surface, not by applying too little [19]. The oil cures through oxidation, a process that requires contact with air [14]. If a thick layer is left on the wood, only the very top surface can get enough oxygen to cure, forming a skin that traps a layer of liquid, uncured oil beneath it [18]. This gummy mess may never fully harden. The secret to Tung oil is a failure of subtraction, not addition. The mantra in the workshop is: "Wipe on, wait, wipe off, and then wipe off again."
After the first coat, you must wait at least 24 hours before applying the next [18]. Subsequent coats are typically applied at full strength. For a piece of furniture like a dining table, we recommend building up three to five thin coats to achieve a durable, water-resistant finish [27]. The full curing process, where the oil completely polymerizes, is a marathon, not a sprint. It can take anywhere from 15 to 30 days, and it requires warmth, low humidity, and good air circulation [18]. A simple fan blowing across the surface can dramatically accelerate the cure time by constantly supplying fresh oxygen [18]
Linseed Oil: The Craftsman's Classic Patina
Linseed oil, derived from the seeds of the flax plant, is perhaps the most classic and traditional oil finish in Western woodworking. When we speak of it, we are almost always referring to "Boiled Linseed Oil," or BLO. It's important to know that BLO is not actually boiled; rather, it has metallic drying agents added to it that significantly speed up the curing process [20]. Raw linseed oil, by contrast, can take weeks or even months to dry properly and is rarely used for furniture [20]. BLO imparts a distinctive and beautiful warm, golden-amber color to the wood, a hue that will continue to deepen and enrich with age, developing a prized patina over many years [29].
The application is wonderfully straightforward. A generous coat is applied with a rag, allowed to soak into the wood for 5 to 15 minutes, and then all the excess is wiped off thoroughly [20]. After waiting 12 to 24 hours for the coat to dry, the process can be repeated [29].
There is, however, one aspect of using linseed oil that is not a suggestion but an absolute law of the workshop: the fire hazard. Rags soaked in linseed oil and other oxidizing oils are highly prone to spontaneous combustion [20]. The curing process is an exothermic reaction, meaning it generates heat. If a rag is wadded up and thrown in a bin, this heat gets trapped, building up until the temperature reaches the flashpoint of the cloth and oil, and it bursts into flame [20]. This is a very real and dangerous phenomenon that has been the cause of countless workshop fires. To dispose of oily rags safely, they must either be laid out flat on a non-flammable surface like a concrete floor until they are completely dry and stiff, or they must be submerged in a metal can filled with water [20].
Linseed oil creates what can be described as a "living finish." It is not a "finish it and forget it" solution like a heavy varnish. It offers moderate protection and can be susceptible to mildew in persistently damp exterior conditions [20]. Its true value lies not in ultimate durability but in the ease with which it can be rejuvenated and the beautiful, deep patina that develops over decades of care. A light re-oiling once a year or whenever the wood looks "dry" will restore its lustre and protection [31]. It is a finish for those who enjoy the ritual of caring for their furniture and who appreciate the character that comes with age.
Danish Oil: Deconstructing the "Easy" Finish
"Danish Oil" is one of the most popular and widely available finishes, prized for its ease of use. However, it is also one of the most misunderstood. "Danish Oil" is a marketing term, not a specific, naturally occurring oil [8]. It is almost always a proprietary blend of three components: a penetrating oil (typically Tung or linseed), a varnish resin (for hardness and durability), and a solvent like mineral spirits (to thin the mixture and aid application) [9]. For example, the common Watco brand of Danish Oil is a blend of oil and polyurethane varnish [8].
Its reputation for being foolproof is well-earned. The application process is simple: wipe or brush on a liberal coat, keep the surface wet for 15 to 30 minutes by reapplying to any spots that soak in, and then wipe off all the excess material thoroughly [9]. It dries relatively quickly, often feeling dry to the touch in 6-8 hours and ready for a recoat in 24 to 48 hours [32]. Typically, two or three coats are sufficient for a general-purpose piece of furniture.
The very thing that makes Danish oil so easy to use—its hybrid nature—also means it is a jack-of-all-trades and a master of none. It offers a compromise between a pure oil and a pure varnish, but it doesn't provide the full benefits of either. It penetrates the wood, but the varnish component prevents it from soaking in as deeply as a thinned, pure oil [33]. It forms a protective film on the surface, but this film is much thinner and less protective than the one built up by multiple coats of a dedicated varnish [32]. The result is a good, but not great, finish. It lacks the deep, "in-the-wood" feel and repairability of pure Tung oil, and it doesn't have the bomb-proof durability of a full polyurethane varnish. Its primary virtue is its simplicity, making it an excellent choice for beginners or for less critical applications. For a high-use, heirloom-quality dining table, we would always opt for a more specialized, higher-performing finish.
Walnut Oil: The Natural, Food-Safe Choice
For any item that will come into direct contact with food, walnut oil is a superb choice. Pressed from the nuts of the walnut tree, it is a completely natural, non-toxic, and food-safe finish [34]. It is the go-to finish for salad bowls, cutting boards, wooden spoons, and children's toys. In terms of its properties, walnut oil is a "semi-drying" oil, which means it will harden over time but may not fully polymerize into a hard, resilient film in the same way that Tung or linseed oil do [35].
Application could not be simpler. The oil is applied generously with a cloth, and the wood is allowed to soak up as much as it can [35]. You will notice that some areas, especially the end grain, are much "thirstier" than others; continue to apply oil to these spots until the entire piece is saturated [35]. After letting it sit for up to an hour to ensure deep penetration, all the excess oil is wiped from the surface [34].
It is important to select the right type of walnut oil. Products sold specifically as wood finishes, such as those from Mahoney's or Doctor's Woodshop, are often heat-treated or polymerized to improve their drying and curing properties [22]. While walnut oil from the grocery store can be used, it may contain preservatives that inhibit drying, and there is a small risk of it going rancid over time if not properly cured [23].
Because of its nature as a semi-drying oil, it's more accurate to think of walnut oil as a "wood conditioner" rather than a "protective finish." Its primary role is to nourish the wood, keep it from drying out, and enhance its natural beauty. It does not build a significant film and offers only minimal resistance to scratches or heavy wear [35]. It needs to be reapplied regularly, especially on items that are frequently washed [34]. Therefore, choosing walnut oil for a dining table would be a specific aesthetic and lifestyle choice. It would be for a client who prioritizes a completely natural, non-toxic surface above all else and is willing to accept a lower level of physical protection in exchange for that purity and the gentle ritual of regular re-oiling.
Teak Oil: The Misunderstood Outdoor Guardian
Of all the finishes, "Teak Oil" is perhaps the most confusingly named, as it contains no oil from the teak tree.11 Like Danish oil, it is a marketing term for a blend of other ingredients. It is typically a mixture of linseed or Tung oil, solvents, and, crucially for its intended purpose, varnish resins and UV inhibitors.10
Its primary and best use is on outdoor furniture. The main function of teak oil is cosmetic: to restore the beautiful golden-brown color to weathered teak and other hardwoods that have turned a silvery-grey due to sun and rain exposure [11]. The application process is straightforward, but success is almost entirely dependent on the preparation. The wood must be thoroughly cleaned of all dirt, mildew, and the grey, oxidized wood fibers on the surface [39]. Once the wood is clean and dry, the oil is simply wiped or brushed on, allowed to soak in for a few minutes, and the excess is wiped away [38]. It is a fast-drying finish, often ready for a recoat in just 4 to 6 hours [41].
It is vital to understand that "Teak Oil" is a maintenance product, not a primary, long-term protective finish. It does not offer the same level of durability as a true marine varnish or a modern teak sealer. Sources describe it as being "extremely high maintenance," requiring reapplication as often as every three months to keep the furniture from re-greying [11]. Several sources explicitly contrast it with "teak sealers," which are described as being much tougher, longer-lasting, and requiring only annual application [11]. Therefore, we would never recommend Teak Oil as the sole protective finish for a new piece of high-end outdoor furniture. Its role is for the homeowner to periodically refresh the look of their existing furniture. For building a new piece from scratch, a far more robust and durable finishing system would be our choice.
The Professional's Choice: Modern Hardwax-Oils
While we hold a deep respect for the traditional oils that have served craftsmen for centuries, our work is also about embracing innovation when it truly serves the wood. Modern hardwax-oils, with brands like Osmo leading the way, represent a significant evolution in finishing technology. They manage to blend the best of old and new, offering the beautiful, natural, in-the-wood feel of a traditional oil combined with a level of durability that rivals some varnishes. For a high-use surface like a dining table or kitchen worktop that needs to stand up to the rigors of a busy family life—spills, heat, and all—a hardwax-oil is often our top recommendation.
The magic of these finishes lies in their composition: a carefully balanced blend of natural oils and hard waxes [1]. The oils penetrate deep into the wood fibers to nourish and protect from within, while the waxes remain at the surface, hardening into a durable, flexible, and microporous layer. This creates a finish that is highly resistant to common household hazards like water, wine, coffee, and juice [25].
However, the application of hardwax-oils requires a complete mental shift from traditional oiling. The mantra for hardwax-oils is "apply as little as humanly possible and work it into the wood." The most common failure with a product like Osmo TopOil is applying it too thickly, which results in a tacky, blotchy, uneven surface that refuses to cure properly [26]. This is because the wax component is designed to form a microscopic film at the surface. If you leave a thick, wet layer, you are essentially leaving a layer of soft wax that cannot get enough oxygen to cure. The application must be thin to win.
The process begins with a surface sanded to P120-P240, depending on the wood [13]. An extremely thin first coat is then applied with a non-abrasive white pad, a high-quality brush, or a short-nap roller [13]. The goal is to work the finish into the grain, applying only what the wood will readily absorb. Unlike with Tung oil, you do not leave a wet coat to soak in. The finish should be applied so thinly that there is little to no excess to wipe off. After allowing 8 to 10 hours for the first coat to dry in a well-ventilated area, a second, even thinner coat is applied, often with just a lint-free cloth [13]. The finish will be fully cured and ready for heavy use in about two to three weeks [13]. A simple water test can confirm that the surface is properly sealed: drops of water should bead up tightly on the surface, not flatten out and soak in [25].
Finally, it is essential to view these products not just as a can of finish, but as a complete "system." The manufacturers provide specific cleaners and maintenance oils that are chemically compatible with the finish [13]. They explicitly warn that common household detergents and all-purpose cleaners are "highly detrimental" and can break down the finish [13]. To achieve the advertised performance and longevity, the client must commit to using the entire system. This is a crucial piece of information that we always pass on during the handover of a bespoke piece, ensuring the client is empowered to care for their investment correctly.
The Artisan's Troubleshooting Guide: Rescuing a Finish Gone Wrong
Even in a professional workshop, with years of experience, things can sometimes go wrong. The air can be too humid, a batch of wood can have unusual properties, or a simple lapse in concentration can occur. The mark of a true craftsman isn't that they never make mistakes, but that they know how to identify the problem, understand its cause, and execute the solution. Most finishing failures are born from a single root cause: impatience. Rushing the process by applying coats too thickly, not allowing adequate drying time, or failing to prepare the surface meticulously is the path to frustration. The core lesson of oil finishing is to slow down and respect the timeline of the materials.
Here are the most common problems we encounter with oil finishes and how to solve them.
The Finish is Sticky, Gummy, or Tacky
This is the cardinal sin of oil finishing, especially with pure Tung oil. It is almost always caused by applying the oil too thickly and, most importantly, failing to wipe off all the excess from the surface [19]. Do not wait for it to cure on its own; it likely won't. The solution is to act decisively. Take a solvent like mineral spirits or a natural citrus solvent and a non-abrasive scrubbing pad (a white Scotch-Brite pad is ideal) or 0000 steel wool. Wet the pad with the solvent and gently scrub the gummy residue off the surface. Use clean rags to wipe away the dissolved slurry as you go. Continue this process until you are back to a clean, non-sticky surface that feels like bare wood [19]. Allow the piece to dry completely for at least 24 hours to ensure all the solvent has evaporated, and then begin the finishing process again from the first coat, this time remembering the "thin to win" mantra.
Dust Nibs and Debris in the Finish
No matter how clean your workshop is, the long cure times of oil finishes provide a large window for airborne dust, lint, or stray hairs to settle on the wet surface [17]. The solution is simple but requires a light touch. Once the coat of finish is fully dry and hard, gently sand the surface with a very fine-grit sandpaper (400 to 600 grit) or a grey abrasive pad. This is called "de-nibbing," and the goal is just to shear off the tiny, raised bumps without cutting through the finish itself [41]. After de-nibbing, meticulously clean all the sanding dust from the surface, and then apply your next thin coat of oil. The new coat will fill in the microscopic scratches from the fine sandpaper and restore a perfectly smooth, even sheen.
Bleeding or Oozing
This issue is common on woods with large, open pores, such as oak or mahogany. The oil soaks deep into the porous structure of the wood. Later, as the temperature in the workshop fluctuates, the air and oil trapped in those pores can expand and "bleed" or weep back out onto the surface, where it dries as small, glossy spots or "scabs" [42]. The best cure here is prevention. For an hour or two after you have applied your coat of oil, check the surface of the piece every 15 to 20 minutes. If you see any wet spots welling up, simply wipe them away with a clean, dry rag before they have a chance to harden [14]. If you discover the shiny spots after they have already dried, you can often disguise them by gently rubbing the entire surface with 0000 steel wool to knock down the gloss, and then applying one more very thin coat of oil to even out the overall sheen [42].
Blotching (Uneven Color)
Blotching appears as dark, patchy areas where the wood has absorbed the oil unevenly. This is usually caused by inconsistencies in the wood's density or, more commonly, by inconsistent sanding that has burnished some areas and left others more open [15]. This is one of the most difficult problems to fix after the fact. The most reliable solution is to sand the entire piece back down to bare wood and start the preparation and finishing process over, paying extreme attention to a consistent, even sanding technique. On woods that are notoriously prone to blotching, like pine, maple, or cherry, the best approach is prevention. Before applying the oil, one can use a pre-stain conditioner or apply a very thin "spit coat" of dewaxed shellac (cut about 1:5 with alcohol) to partially seal the wood and promote even absorption of the subsequent oil finish.
Living with Your Finish: The Art of Long-Term Care
Our relationship with a piece of furniture doesn't end when it leaves the workshop. A well-made piece is a companion for life, and a proper oil finish is designed to be cared for, to mature, and to tell a story over time. The long-term success of the finish depends heavily on the owner's understanding of how to live with it. This is why the handover of a bespoke piece is a crucial part of our process; we don't just deliver a table, we deliver the knowledge to care for it.
For general, day-to-day cleaning, a simple soft cloth dampened with water and perhaps a drop of a mild, pH-neutral soap is all that is needed. It is critical to avoid harsh, all-purpose chemical cleaners, detergents, or bleach. These products are often highly alkaline and are designed to strip away grease and grime; they will do the same to your oil finish, breaking it down and leaving the wood unprotected [13].
Over time, with use and cleaning, the finish will naturally wear. When the wood begins to look a little dry or lackluster—typically once every six to twelve months, depending on use—it is time for a simple maintenance coat. The process is easy: first, clean the surface thoroughly with a damp cloth to remove any dirt or grime. Allow it to dry completely. Then, using a clean, lint-free cloth, wipe on a very thin coat of the original oil used on the piece. Let it sit for just a few minutes, then wipe off any and all excess oil, buffing the surface dry [9]. This simple five-minute process will restore the lustre, depth, and protection of the finish, keeping the piece looking its best.
Spills should be wiped up promptly. While a well-cured oil finish is highly water-resistant, it is not impervious. Leaving a puddle of red wine or coffee to sit overnight can lead to stains that penetrate deep into the wood fibers [1].
Finally, we encourage our clients to embrace the ageing process. An oil finish allows the wood to develop a rich patina over time. Minor scratches and signs of use are not damage; they are the physical record of family dinners, children's homework, celebrations, and daily life. They are what transform a piece of furniture from a manufactured object into a part of the family's history. The beauty of an oil finish is that it can always be refreshed with a maintenance coat, but the story of its life remains written in the wood [7].
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